Drybrushing: Apply some paint to a wide flat brush and then wipe the majority of the paint off. Then very lightly apply the paint to the figure or part. This allows paint to be applied to the peaks of the part while the valleys remain the original color. It's good for shading and making plastic look like metal.
Wash: Apply some thinner to a dark paint and then slather your piece with it. The valleys of the piece will get the paint while the peaks remain the intended color. This is good for weathered and worn clothing and shading.
Don't be afraid to mix colors. For example, paint the figures muscles a flesh tone, then mix the flesh tone with a little white and apply the drybrushing technique. This will help add dynamic shading to the figures muscles.
Don't be afraid to to multiple coats...sometimes ther is no other way.
I have been customizing for quite some time now and have found that the best paint especially for the money is plain old Folkart acrylic paint. You can find this stuff at Walmart,Michaels, Joanne Fabrics, any major craft store from $.79-$1.99 a bottle depending on the color. Also I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND Liquitex I have used it in the past and it doesn't work very well even when it's mixed with a medium (it has a very chalky apperance when it dries). Make sure you use a different brush for dark and light colors and a seperate brush for black and white. NEVER USE ENAMEL PAINT "EXCEPT" when you want to give your figures the fresh wet blood look. Testors makes a RED WITH METAL FLAKE PAINT for models (NOT METALLIC RED there is a difference). Even though it is enamel it will dry it takes about 2-3 days (DON'T TOUCH YOUR FIGS UNTIL IT DRIES COMPLETELY) this stuff is awesome, I have been using it for years.
BLACKWASH, BLACKWASH, BLACKWASH....water down some black paint, slather it on your fig, it will run down into the cracks and wipe away the rest (DO NOT USE TOILET PAPER, PAPER TOWELS, OR TISSUES TO WIPE AWAY THE EXCESS PAINT IT WILL LEAVE FIBERS ON YOUR FIGS) I reccomend using an old t-shirt. You can also use other colors than black to do blackwash with. Some people like to prime before painting, I never do. Just remember that you might have to sand down any really shiny or smooth surfaces to make the paint stick if you don't primer.
ALWAY'S USE A SEALER AFTER YOUR DONE PAINTING YOUR FIG! This will help protect the paint and build a better bond to the fig. You can use a spray on type like DULLCOAT from Testors, or Krylon puts out many types of sealers found at most craft stores. Or you can use brush on sealers for smaller areas. Remember...Matte=flat finish, Satin=Semi gloss finish, Clear coat= gloss finish. Most of all though don't be afraid to experiment (you can test stuff out on yard sale/thrift store figs) and have fun!
Also, experiment with 'washes'. Not to be confused with the washes mentioned earlier. What I mean is .. well maybe I should say layers... or layers of washes... anyway... what I am getting at is a dilluted paint that is applied on a thin layer. Then allow that to dry and apply more in just part of the area to darken or tint an area already painted. You should be able to then develope a more full look to say a face or arms.
I concur with the suggestions to use the folk art type paint in the little tubs. The tips on the site given above for the miniatures should be viewed as painting tips, but I agree that the modeling or lead figure type paints may not be what you want to use... again it depends on the look you are shooting for.
Bookmarks